Something to ground me
I miss Baltimore intensely today, perhaps because my mind is fluttering about like a spastic freak, but more likely because I'm feeling particularly lost in my life. Subsequently, it seems wise to finally post this recipe, something that is very dear to me, something that is particularly grounding albeit not entirely healthy - that thing is Greek pizza, from Matthew's Pizzeria in Baltimore.
Greek pizza, for those of you who don't know, is a hybrid between a deep dish pizza and a New York style pizza. It is usually a small and thick pizza, some would even say doughy, baked in oil or fat in a high-sided aluminum or cast iron pan for a longer period of time. This baking method is what achieves the cheesy, crunchy rim of dough and melted cheese, the high point of the Greek pizza. I almost hesitate to say this, but think Pizza Hut pan pizza on speed, similar concept but with actual delicious and flavorful dough, truly fresh ingredients, and mouth-watering crusty sides. There's a pretty good explanation of it on this site, Serious Eats.
Now, I realize that there are many misconceptions of Greek pizza, or New England-style Greek pizza, that give it a bad rap. Pizza Hut's overtake of this style has certainly not helped its image. Still though, if it's any comfort, do know that I didn't even know what I had in front of me for many years. For the longest time, I thought Matthew's pizza was a deep dish pizza...but then I went to Chicago and realized my horrendous error. Matthew's pizza is definitely not deep dish pizza. It is Greek pizza done right. I'm not lying when I say that this is my favorite restaurant of all time, at least in the time of my relatively short life. The pizza is so good and so straightforward that it's easy to connect with it. I got it the last time I was in Baltimore, carrying it through the bitter cold while rushing to the train, eating the steaming, crusty, flavorful beast on a park bench, wind whipping away our napkins.
I've always loved pan pizzas, maybe because I went to Pizza Hut a lot as a kid, but Matthew's pizza is something else entirely. It has irrevocably changed my memories and who I am. I know that sounds hippy dippy, but hear me out. Matthew's means home, and home means happiness. I'm not talking about "permanent addresses" or "current addresses" or the things that you put on your tax forms to determine where you pay taxes; I'm talking about your true home. Your true home is the place that you came into self-awareness, into individualism and all the things that made you, you, and where you came into accepting yourself. True home is where you are truly happy and at peace with yourself. Now, this is my definition, so don't hold me to any scientific journals. Still though, with this defintion, when I say Matthew's pizza reminds me of my true home and inspires an upswelling of true happiness, you'll actually realize the extent of my feelings.
Perhaps it is easier to describe this phenomena through feelings. This pizza symbolizes a feeling that we've probably all felt at some point in our lives. It reminds me of my giddy first few dates with Pinky, of cozy corner tables and kitschy designs, of affordable, well-sized, loaded "Everything" pizzas and of waitresses remembering our faces. It reminds me of the passage of time, of the internal transition from giddiness to actual love, of being able to ask for a glass of milk eat a restaurant without feeling weird about it, and of easy conversations, friendly people, and people-watching. Everytime this pizza comes out of the oven or goes into my mouth, I remember that warm, happy feeling that's almost like meditation because all you're focused on is the feeling of the crisp air on your face or the warm grasp of someone else's hand in yours, and there are no thoughts of what you "need to be doing" for tomorrow, only of what's in front of you at that moment and how enjoyable all of it is. That's how I feel when I eat this pizza. That's what I remember.
Phew, now that that's out of the way, let's talk about the recipe. This recipe isn't a copycat version of Matthew's pizza or anything, it's just a solid representation of Greek pizza that satisfies my cravings for Baltimore's Matthew's pizza. Really, you should go to this restaurant yourself and experience the full effect. Or, you should just find a restaurant that provides a specific food experience that's repeatable (affordable) but of the highest quality that forever epitomizes your relationship and your being. No pressure, right?
Greek Style Pizza Dough
2 10-inch pizzas
1/2 tsp active dry yeast
1 tsp honey
1 C tepid water
2 C bread flour
1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
2 TB olive oil
2 TB softened pork lard
*Note: you can use whichever toppings you want, though I recommend tomato sauce, freshly grated mozzarella cheese, sausage, pepperoni, green olives, and anchovies.
Activate the yeast with the honey and tepid water. Let sit covered in a warm place until yeast is frothy. In a large separate bowl, sift together the bread flour and the salt. Once the yeast mixture is frothy, add in 1 TB of the pork lard and 1 TB olive oil and mix. Then add in the flour and salt, stirring until a sticky dough is formed. Cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap and let rise for 6-8 hours.
After 6-8 hours, divide the dough in half and shape into two balls. Rub the remaining 1 TB of oil and of lard in the pizza pan, or cast iron skillet. Stretch the dough over the pizza pan, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise again for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. Once the dough has risen, uncover the pans and top the pizzas with your desired toppings. Bake the pizza for 15-20 minutes, or until crusty and slightly browned on top. Let cool and then serve.





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